

Shawl
(Kānī jamawār Rumāl) کانی جاماوار رُمال
19th century, c. 1870–1900 Origin: Kashmir Provenance: USA Material: Pashmina Wool Design: Jamawār This richly patterned shawl is a striking example of Kashmir's tradition of Kānī handweaving, in which intricate designs are built directly into the fabric through the insertion and interlocking of coloured wefts. Unlike embroidered shawls, the ornament here is an integral part of the woven structure. The composition is dominated by a large, radiating floral-paisley medallion, surrounded by curling boteh forms, flowering sprays and densely worked vegetal ornament. Deep reds form the dominant figure, over a black ground enlivened by turquoise, ivory, green and brown. The broad borders repeat smaller paisley and geometric motifs. The extraordinary density of the pattern leaves very little of the black ground undecorated, characteristic of the highly elaborate Kashmiri shawls of the later nineteenth century. Private collection: Trām and Beyond
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